by
neilduffen
@ 2008-06-01 - 00:35:19
The humble burger is the greatest invention ever invented, it is the pinacle of human achievement.
Forget Leonardo DaVinci painting the Mona Lisa, forget the Wright brothers inventing the aeroplane, forget Neil Armstrong taking one small step for man and one giant leap for mankind....if you want an indication of true genius then look to the guy who decided to mince a lump of beef, bind it with an egg yolk and flavour with herbs.
Creating a culinary experience that can be likened to an audiance with the almighty himself.
Did you know that four different people have tried to claim that they were touched by the hand of God and were inspired to create the modern hamburger?
No, I didn't know it either, thank god for Wikipedia.
I know a good burger.
For me, a restaurant can succeed or fail on the strength of the burger.
I don't give a fuck how clever the chef is with a piece of Dover Sole or what a work of art the food is when it is presented on the plate.
It doesn't matter.
If he or she does not posess the ancient alchemist arts that turn lumps of meat into an orgasm for the taste buds, then they have failed.
And not just in their chosen profession but in their lives as well.
I have selflessly tasted many burgers, I have pushed the envelope in the consumption of the all meat patty in a quest to find the perfect fusion of meat and herbs.
And I have yet to find it, I hope I never do, 'cause it's all about the journey and not the destination.
But I can tell you where to find the BEST burger in London so you may indulge and rejoice and where to find WORST, so you may avoid like the plague.
We'll start with the negative.
There is a small restaurant down on the South Bank called The Riviera.
It's between the South Bank centre and the Oxo tower, it faces the Thames and looks out toward St Paul.
We dined there last year when friends travelled down from Manchester, it was a good weekend apart from the visit to this shithole of an eatery.
We ended up there by a kind of accident, as one of the party had walked enough that day and declared that she did not want walk another step, she WANTED GODDAMN FOOD RIGHT GODDAMN now.
We entered and were shown to a table on the upper level and ordered some drinks. The rest of the party ordered some kind of fish dish and I chose the burger.
'natch.
I don't eat fish, I can't stand it.
Can't stand the smell, the texture, the flavour...any of it.
How people can eat Sushi is beyond me.
But that night, I should have ordered a piece of heavily decayed Cod that had been pulled out of the Thames, 'cause it would have tasted waaaaay better than the pice of crap that was served up to me, under the libelous label of 'burger'.
When I order a burger in a food joint I anticipate what it will be like, how toasted the bun will be, the delicate flavours of the meat patty and tanginess of the relish.
And the fries!! If they are slightly overcooked then they have been done to perfection.
When the waiter placed my dinner plate in front of me my heart sank.
On the plate was the smallest portion of fries and they were undercooked. There was some attempt at a salad garnish, ie, some lettuce,tomato and onion and then we had the burger itself.
Fuck me, it was bad.
Two pieces of bun and a meat patty.
That was it.
No mayo or relish, no tomato or salad, no cheese or anything.
Two pieces of frickin' bread and a pice of old leather that was suipposed to be a meat patty.
I have shit better meals than what I was served that night.
Please take my advice and avoid at all costs.
Now for the best burger, and it's not from Smollensky's, though it does come a close second.
Just around the corner from Canary Whaf is Coldharbour. In Coldharbour is a small riverside pub called The Gun.
It's a cool little place, quite old and bursting with character.
It has bar and good restaurant at teh ron, a couple of bars at the back and a nice riverside terrace, where you can sit and enjoy a pint while watching teh sun set over the Thames.
Okay, it's not exactly the frickin' Riviera, but you have to work with what you got.
On two occasions now I have had the burger, and the first time was outstanding, the second was better than that.
I mean, it was the fucking business.
On the menu it has a simple discription, ''The Gun shin burger with fat chips'' and is not cheap at £12.50, but worth every penny.
The last time we ordered the burger we were citting outside on the terrace, it was a friday night and quite mild.
The bar was buzzing, a boat had moored alongside the terrace and the crew were enjoying a few beers with the locals.
We ordered and while we waited we chowed down on some bread and butter, which in itself was quite delicous.
The burger arrived and we were again faced with neatly piled chips, like minature logs of potato. The burger itself had been drizzled with melted cheese and beef tomato. On the side was a bit of green and a small pot of a homemade relish.
The patty itself crumlbled when cut with the knife, steam escaped and smelt divine, herby with a hint of garlic.
Smothering the small piece of burger with a smidge of the relish, I took a bite and it was - well it was amazing.
Everything about this burger just works, it was a delight to eat.
The chips were cooked to perfection, a nice gold brown on the outside and fluffy white potato on the inside.
Man, I am still thinking about that burger.
If you over this way, and I mean in the east end of London, I highly suggest you take my recommendation and check The Gun out.
The burger will delight.